Posts: You do realise that big suck noise is for your engine and not your member. EL XR8 Timmeh banned himself from being a moderator. XC GXL 5. Thank you to Jimbos alchoholic uncle for the short motor. It goes alright now mate. Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 23 guests. Pull the throttle body off and give it a really good clean i just use carby cleaner This has been a very common occurance with the BA.
I think there is a few members on here that have the same issue. Ok BA 6cylinder falcons have problems with the cam solenoids gunning up. Easy to clean remove intake piping,remove the throttle body,remove the spark plug plastic cover,then disconnect and remove each coil pack it is not too important if you get them mixed up because they are sequential ,remove the cam solenoid seals at the front of the rocker vocer they are held in with 7mm head bolts,remove the rocker cover.
Now the cam solenoids are located right behind the timing chain,remove the 8mm head bolts be very careful not to drop these bolts,remember which solenoid goes on the intake or exhaust side. Use some kero or good cleaning agents in a small container,soak the solenoids in there for 5mins make up some small test wires to actuate the solenoids whilst submersed in the cleaning solution a couple of times should do.
Use a 12 volt power supply. Then spray them clean with a brake clean and blow them clean with compressed air. Put the engine back to gether in reverse order get the engine to operationg temperature and then change the oil and filter. This is very common on the BA 6's. Also carbon build up is another problem with them,ford do sell a cleaning spary that you can use at major service intervals.
I would also check your fuel pressure,i have replaced a few fuel regs on the BA's just faulty items. Would make the engines run rough pumping in too much fuel,one car i did had kpa fuel pressure at idle which is way too much should be around to kpa.
Display posts from previous: All posts 1 day 7 days 2 weeks 1 month 3 months 6 months 1 year. You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum.A complaint amongst our Barra turbo customer base especially in higher km engines.
In fact we get so many of them we thought we would pen an article explaining the components roles in the operation of the Variable Cam timing system in the I6 engine and identification and repair or any faults. It is general information only and not specific to your personal circumstances it is no replacement for professional advice but may assist in your understanding.
First in order to understand the fault it helps to have a clear understanding of the components involved in the variable cam timing system fitting barra engines and its operation. This enables a technician to focus on the correct components when faced with an issue.
A good quality scan tool, with data logging function will assist greatly in ensure time and money are not wasted. Both camshafts can vary over a 60 degree crank angle. OCV are pictured below. There is one for each camshaft. If when scanned wtih P Camshaft position accuator fault, check the condition of the Oil Control Valve and circuitry for open or short circuit the most common cause of this issue is wiring short or open circuit or a faulty PCM.
This bears no relationship to the cam angle sensor which communicates the position of the camshaft to the PCM via a sensor located at the rear of the cylinder head.
Pictured below. Codes related to the camshaft positioned sensor are listed underneath. Any diagnostic trouble code relating to timing or camshaft advance or retard will not be related to oil control valve or camphaser. We often experience customers confusing the Oil control valve as a cam angle sensor. The oil control valve is a valve only and does not provide any feedback to the PCM.
These CMP sensors are Variable reluctance sensors they interact with the engine crank angle sensor CKP to synchronise the ignition and fuel injection systems.
These faults do not indicate a fault with the VCT phaser, oil control valve. Datalog the Camshaft position sensor to identify the presence of any signal. If both CMP signals fail the fuel injectors will cease to operate sequentially and the engine may run rough.
Each cam angle sensor can be tested by measuring the resistance across the pins with a multimeter CMP resistance specification as per the manufacturer is ohms. Then check the wiring harness for any shorts or open circuits.
The Powertrain control module uses engine rpm, engine loan and throttle position to determine the optimum desired cam angle for both camshafts. The engine oil temp sensor supplied information to the PCM to enable adjustments to made in relation to changing oil vicosity.
This basic understanding of the Barra VCT system can assist us in diagnosis. Often customer attend our premises with a vehicle stalling at idle.Return to General Discussion.Motorola xoom rom download
Skip to content. B-Series Problems and Fixes This is a general discussion forum, open to all participants. Now I am a member of the xr6turbo forum, but I get the feeling that most of the guys on the forum owned Hondas most of their life before deciding to buy turbo falcons, so they know fark all and seem to be willing to rely purely on rubbish mechanics and Ford dealerships.
What I would like to achieve is a collection of problems and fixes to help fellow members because as time goes by and B-series become more and more affordable people are going to purchase them due to the appeal of a factory turbo falcon.
Now I understand B-series in general are renowned for many problems, so I thought I would start a thread and also include some of my own current experiences. Admin can you please let me know if this is the appropriate area. Cheers Matt. Spark plugs are. Missing rough under light acceleration intermittent problem only, have cleaned throttle body, intercooler and pipework.
Can also happen at rpm light throttle, TPS issue? Replaced fuel filter and air filter. Over boosting issue, have cleaned boost solenoid. Interesting though when I take off the boost line and connect it directly with the actuator front housing to actuator only the boost builds very slowly the opposite when connected.
Can may need latest PCM update? Any help appreciated Matt. To test them, get someone to watch a front wheel while you creep the car forward, then hit the brakes hard. If the wheel moves back in the wheel arch, they're stuffed.
Commando wrote: seriously, this thread is now a complete cyber skip bin filled with all kinds of waste from the internet Since I've had mine I've had everything from ICC packing up, to turbo rebuild, to ecu coil driver faults.
When I'm not on my phone I'll write some stuff.Australian culture dictates that you need to be either a Ford or a Holden fan. It also dictates that you need to be an overweight slob, living in the suburbs and routinely beat your wife.Haltech ecu output
We have built a culture that we are proud of and no one knows why. Drinking beer out of cans, putting sofas on the front porch and doing burnouts in the driveway. As much as the patriotic suburban pie eating slob feels he is backing the Australian economy assuming he even knows what that word means the fact still remains that in the global car market both Holden and Ford are not really contenders.
Starting at the rear of the car. The common Ford diff bushes problem started with these cars and the hand brake mechanism is just stupid.
Moving forward, commonly known for transmission faults. Engine mounts splitting and power steering problems. The BA was so superb that the push rod in the brake booster was commonly known to hold the brake master cylinder on. This gave you the results of driving with one foot on the brake all the time.
The brakes cooked, the rotors warped and the steering wheel shuddered.
It goes really hard but idle’s poorly and stalls alot.
In similar fashion to the early model Territories these cars are made of Duplo. Everything plastic inside the car is known to break. Bonnet release cables, inner door handles and the centre console crumble in your hand the third time you use them. The seat rails break, ignition coils fail and the TPS sensor is known for behaving like a fat kid in a public swimming pool.
Engine wise these cars are not too bad. They are the same engine being used since Longshanks took one on his crusades. They are known for leaking inlet manifold gasket and timing chain tensioner leaks. Add a whole new level of rubbish, they released a turbo charged XR6 model. Enter every young bloke who ever thought of touching himself whilst his parents went out to dinner. The XR6 Turbo is a poor excuse for a performance car. Face it kiddos you bought a four door taxi so you could pick up multiple women of questionable morals outside Mona Vale Hotel on a Thursday night.
Just a pile of tinny shit which dents every time you walk near it and rusts out from under you. Not all of them are rubbish. Whilst most of the vehicles with a Ford badge on them are very average the Ford Ranger seems to be an amazing car.
Whilst this was a funny read. I had a BF sedan for 5yrs. I think is you look after any car, you can make it last, even one that gives you grief. These falcons are great for parts, service is cheap, since I serviced it myself. Obviously holden heads. I have a XR6 with six speed and it has been great. Just done km. Definitely cheaper to own than a euro car.Posts: The engine in my car?
Or a cure for cancer? Exhaust : Pacemaker's, 2. Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 23 guests. Display posts from previous: All posts 1 day 7 days 2 weeks 1 month 3 months 6 months 1 year. You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum.
Post subject: starts then stalls - oxy sensor probs? Posted: Thu Jul 12, am. Parts Gopher. Getting Side Ways. I'm not much help on the other suggestions, but I'm pretty sure that the oxy sensor won't be causing stalling issues. The oxy sensor doesnt do much at all on start up. Posted: Thu Jul 12, pm. But i dont see why they would have stuffed up coincidentally after i unplugged the oxy sensor. Posted: Fri Jul 13, am. Checked your coil and dizzy tfi module yet.
Posted: Sun Jul 15, am. Stock as a Rock.
I'm having a similar issue with my car. I posted about it but no bastards replied yet, lol. But yea, once you start mine its got no idle at all, just stalls. Runs perfectly fine if you keep ur foot on the pedal, but it wont idle by itself. I bought a new ISC and bashed on, but it didnt help.I know that my FG has had a stalling issue since early on in its life as a Ford dealership has had a go in trying to rectify it when it was stock.
Basically sometimes when you would come to a stop, it would hunt and sometimes stall. When cold it was fine but after about 5 to 10 min of driving, on cold mornings is would have a regular stall and after that random hunts and stalls. Well a few weeks ago I added another earth from the battery to the body of the car.
It stopped stalling but still would drop idle a little. Over the weekend I added two more earths. One to the manifold and another from auto trans to body. Seems to have kept the idle pretty solid. So it has definately helped stop the stalling but the revs do sometimes drop a teeny but recover very quickly.
I have read others having a similar issue to mine so I am just posting this as adding earths is a very simple thing to do to see if it helps. I still think Fords factory tune is a bit phucked when it does not take into consideration a little bit of a poor earth. Two white earth leads. One to the ECU earth.Difference between td27 and qd32
Had to remove that security bolt which was a -itch. Did it with vice grips from under the fender.Danielle bregoli at 13
Stalling in the FG could be caused by a number of things. The fact that it substantially rectified the stalling issue I had indicates that something is not getting a good earth.
Anyway if you try it and it helps do post your results as even those who just suffer a hunting when you roll up to a set of lights, if it helps this then we may be onto something. Immediately it began hunting once warm, getting down around rpm and then recovering. It was the earth strap from the intake manifold to the chassis air box bolt that made all the difference. The hunting however had reduced to almost non existent. If your fixes above work, you're worth your weight in platinum recovered from restrictive factory cataclysmic convertors.
I'm off on a mission to give your suggestions a go. What you're suggesting sounds easy enough to do. The stalling issue described above is pretty much an exact description of the very irritating problem that I've endured for the last year or more. I should have checked the forum for a solution earlier.Posts: Last edited by Kit on Thu Nov 03, pm, edited 1 time in total.
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 24 guests. Edit: And just because a diagnostic doesn't show up any error codes means nothing but the fact that the mechanic hasn't investigated the problem. An ECU can't possibly return an error code for every single little conveivable issue that's wrong with the car. Display posts from previous: All posts 1 day 7 days 2 weeks 1 month 3 months 6 months 1 year. You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum.
Post subject: rough idle and stall Posted: Thu Nov 03, am. Smokin em up. As a lot of other people on here my car has a rough idle, it intermittently drops every now and then or misses.
But every now and then its almost to the point that it stalls. Even sometimes when I go to slow down and I put my foot down on the clutch, the revs have just dropped straight down, it shudders and then comes back up to idle. Does anyone have any idea what the problem maybe. Posted: Thu Nov 03, am. Technical Contributor.Rough idle
Tyre Shredder. I have an update though. When I hopped in the car at work when it was cold, if I tapped the accellerator at idle quickly, the revs would rise then come down below idle. Almost as if it misses when the revs come back down to idle. When I got home but, I noticed that the engine temperature was up a bit more than normal, and I hadn't even thrashed it or anything.
The temp has never been up that much before. Getting Side Ways. I think it would be great to get a definitive resolution for this problem. We need to get together with each other, mechanics and specialists to thrash out a fix once and for all.
It really is a common problem and a fault lays somewhere, in the car. Posted: Thu Nov 03, pm. I can set my idle up to rpm or rpm, and the idle improves out of sight.
The only problem with doing that is it causes flaring and hanging on secondary startups, and a fast speed in idle. I can travel the first 1 km on the way to work from home, with my foot off the accelerator But as soon as I got my mechanic to try and solve the flaring revs, he adjusted the rpm back down to Fords specs, to rpm and solved the flaring and high idle completely. The engine hates it at that rpm.
- Ms implantology
- One earbud louder than the other android
- Paper cup sales
- Best class in pso2
- Wholesale body scrubs
- Seroma leaking dog
- Integers pdf
- Hypermesh learning pdf
- Smart iptv crack
- Porno senegale 2020
- Herbal doctor remedies products
- Fun psychology experiments to try
- Wii u wup files
- Jenkins pipeline checkout scm example
- Lutherville timonium
- Farji ka matlab
- Aib-web laib alla fiera “più libri più liberi” 2019
- Fs19 mini excavator